Kitsune Kitsuke

Some Kitsuke

2010-10-14T21:53:00.000+09:00

I forgot I even had this set. I love the obi, which was a gift from Ikeda-san.

Young Girl's Furisode

2010-09-04T05:32:00.000+09:00

My friend Emma came over to my house to help me practice kitsuke. It's been about three years since I did a girl's furisode and I had a total FAIL. Emma didn't seem to mind, but now I feel like I need to get out the practice mannequin and obi and try again.

I also am missing part of my kit and have no idea where it got off to.

Flickr Set!

Kitsuke Practice

2010-08-27T01:15:00.004+09:00

Fifteen minutes from now, my friend Emma is coming over.

It's been several years since I dressed a young girl in Furisode and I screwed up by not practicing at all prior to today.

I also think I'm missing a part to the accessories set, but at this point, it's more about hanging out with Emma

and getting the gist of it then getting it spot-on.

I'll post pictures later.

Yukata

2010-07-02T09:59:00.002+09:00

My friend Amber, wearing a yukata set put together by me. She dressed herself and did pretty well for someone with no yukata experience!

Hisashiburi! (It's Been A Long Time)

2010-03-28T05:26:00.002+09:00

IMG_5645
Originally uploaded by JLTP

Well,

After more than a year, I unpacked the kimono and had me some kitsuke practice. It took 17 minutes start-to-finish. My Odaiko for my obi looked a little big, but other than that, I was suprised how well I did! My best time is 9 minutes for a kimono of this type of styling.

The kimono is pre-WWII, possibly end of Taisho, with a four-seasons motif featuring books, ume, pheasants and water designs. The pretty grey obi has a tonal Ivy motif and is modern, perhaps 10 - 15 years old. The nagajuban, my "hidden stylishness" is vintage from the late 60's and features a red and white wave pattern with gold flecks scattered across it. The haneri is modern and made of jinken (rayon) with embrodery and gold accents. The obiage and obijime are also modern. I've got on white tabi, but no shoes, since I'm standing on a tatami mat.

Repatriation

2009-01-31T17:50:00.002+09:00

Hi!

My job in Japan ended and as of this post, I've been back on the East Coast of the US of A for a week. I was going to close down this blog, but I've decided to leave it (barely) active, in case I have a few things here and there to post about kimono-related stuff here in the US.

It is simultaneously good and awful to be back.

December Kimono

2008-12-21T11:34:00.001+09:00

December Kimono
Originally uploaded by bakagaijiin

Red and Green and sort of tacky but it got the attention of the American buyers.

Wrappin

2008-11-29T12:55:00.001+09:00

Klizeks
Originally uploaded by bakagaijiin

Using some of my kimono skills to pretty up Xmas gifts.
Yes, that is a kai no kuchi musubi in blue on the red and white dotted gift.

Pretty and (sort of) Practical!

Last Big Bazaar

2008-10-29T16:39:00.001+09:00

IMG_1882
Originally uploaded by bakagaijiin

I wore two of my nicest kimono to "celebrate" my last big bazaar.
There's more photos on flickr, click the image to go there.

Koromogae

2008-10-01T16:34:00.002+09:00

Today is the traditional day for changing your summer wardrobe over to your fall and winter one.
It's been a tradition in Japan since Edo times.

I am currently swamped with other things right now, otherwise I would take half a day to poke around in my kimono, putting away the summer ones (which sadly, I hardly wore this year) and bringing out the fall and winter ones.

Maybe in a few weeks when everything has simmered down.

Fukuro Tsuzume (Fat Sparrow)

2008-07-11T20:35:00.001+09:00

Fukuro Tsuzume (Fat Sparrow)
Originally uploaded by bakagaijiin

This is a cheater obi I made from a vintage fukuro obi. It made me sick to cut up such a beautiful thing, but the end result was worth it.

Kimono Facts

2008-07-05T07:08:00.002+09:00

A little about what I own (and what I would be willing to sell to you!):

I own a total of :77 kimono.
(not counting nagajuban or under-kimono)
the oldest kimono I own dates from Meiji (1868 to 1912, I think mine is late-middle)
the most expensive one I own was 400 dollars. bought in Hokkaido.
the most naughtiest one I own is a nagajuban, white background with a red shunga print
the only one I haven't worn is a married woman's formal kimono, since there hasn't been a wedding or such for me to go to.
I own a complete hanayome (bridal set)
I also own a complete man's formal set (for use on my husband).

7 Winter Kimono
7 Autumn Kimono
5 Spring Kimono
9 Summer Kimono
1 Hemp
1 Linen
4 Sha
3 Ro
5 Yukata (Womens)
2 Yukata (Men's)
10 "Anytime" Kimono
10 Uchikake (usually for display)
1 set for a baby
1 full set of Girl's formal
1 Men's formal
1 Boys' formal

Eiko-san, Jodi and Chris

2008-04-20T13:55:00.001+09:00

Eiko-san, Jodi and Chris
Originally uploaded by bakagaijiin

Helped out at the Kimono shop on 4/19/2008.
My obiage is a little too high up for a married woman like me.

Taisho/Pre WWII Kimono

2008-04-04T15:41:00.001+09:00

Taisho/Pre WWII Kimono
Originally uploaded by bakagaijiin

Did you buy a kimono from me? I bet you did if you are visiting this blog!

Itty Bitty Bag

2008-03-02T15:20:00.001+09:00

Itty Bitty Bag
Originally uploaded by bakagaijiin

Made from a bit of vintage kimono fabric. There is a long, long tradition of recycling unwearable kimono in Japan.

3/4 View

2008-01-12T07:50:00.001+09:00

3/4 View
Originally uploaded by bakagaijiin

Got to bust out a 'mono I hadn't worn yet. I've had the obi for almost three years now.

Bummer

2008-01-04T18:14:00.000+09:00

I just found out that some webmaster (whose site will remain unidentified) hijacked my photos and text from this blog entry:

Obi Quiet (on bakagaijiin.blogspot.com)

for use for commerical gain on THEIR website.

They are using my photos and a good chunk of my text without permission.

I've sent a cease-and-desist letter via one of my lawerly friends. I'm so torqued that I want everything of mine pulled off the site IMMEDIATELY.

Please, if you want to use my pictures and text, ask first.

Geisha Makeup

2008-01-01T11:39:00.000+09:00

I've not had a lot of traffic on these pages, but I did get a couple of requests for information on Geisha makeup.

Some of the makeup is highly specialized, but if you are doing cosplay or theatre, you can make do with what you've got available.

This is an instruction page from a manufacturer of cosmetics, in English no less.

My Kimono Sensei, Eiko-san, uses colors to better suit Gaijiin coloring (red next to my green eyes looks awful, but pink or even orange will work) and making subtle adjustments for impact. Eiko-san says the dark hair and dark eyes of Japanese people are brought out by the white makeup. The darkness of the hair and eyes serves as a foil for the white-face makeup, something that goes lacking for those of us with green or blue eyes. So if you have lighter eyes, you may need to use a slightly darker lipstick or perhaps draw heavier or darker brows. The changes will/should be subtle but it is enough to get a nice end result without deviating too far from the "traditional" look.

Of course, you can damn tradition all to hell and just do "Fresh Outta Harajuku", too.

I'm going to try to begin with regular postings once more, and hopefully, I'll get some pictures up and cross-post them to flickr.

Birdie, Birdie!

2007-11-06T01:11:00.001+09:00

IMG_0126
Originally uploaded by bakagaijiin

The interesting thing about some of my favorite kimono is that the best ones always look like shit laid out flat. This one really is terrific, but you wouldn't be able to guess by looking at it off of a human body.

It was a complete accident that my pose makes it appear that one of the birdies is perching on my obi, but that doesn't make it any less cool.

Air Force Ball 2007: Becca, Mike, Jodi

2007-09-27T21:32:00.001+09:00

Air Force Ball 2007: Becca, Mike, Jodi
Originally uploaded by bakagaijiin

My obijime flopped loose. A little sloppy on my part.
Becca's houmoungi was a beautiful color, between salmon / coral / mauve. It suited her perfectly and I got to tie a really cool bow that I had never done before.

Any excuse to throw on a kimono.

Becca and Becca's Mom

2007-09-22T01:22:00.001+09:00

Becca and Becca's Mom
Originally uploaded by bakagaijiin

Dressed for the Air Force Ball. I wore a kimono, too!

Leaning Towards...

2007-08-26T08:16:00.001+09:00

Leaning Towards...
Originally uploaded by bakagaijiin

...really enjoying the Misawa Festival in our yukata. My friend Ben is quite adorable in his yukata.

You can see more yukata pictures in the flickr set to which this photo belongs.

Wearing Kimono: Men's Yukata

2007-07-29T09:28:00.000+09:00

I love guys in yukata, particularly if the outfit leans towards a vintage look, like a soft heko obi or a western hat thrown into the mix. My husand doesn't like how heko obi look but he does like hats. This was taken right before we went to Misawa's Tanabata Festival, where it was raining and grey, but the beer was still good!

Kai no Kuchi Musubi is Clam's Mouth Knot. Very simple, yet elegant. The print on the obi shows a KAMA or hand-scythe. The circle is the kanji for "WA" which can be read as harmony and the last charcter is the syllabic alphabet character "nu". It's sort of like a rebus. You read the three as "kamawanu" which translates to "no worries" or "carefree". It's exact date of origin is unclear, but it's pretty old, because because the kabuki actor, Dandyuro Ichikawa the 7th (1791-1859) used it for his own family mark.

Tanabata Yukata Nai!

2007-07-07T07:52:00.000+09:00

Today is Tanabata, but we couldn't find the Tanabata Festival anywhere in Misawa.
So I didn't get to wear a yukata today.

Getting Dressed: Changing Clothes

2007-06-07T11:57:00.001+09:00

June 1 is officially known as "Koromogae." Koromo is the word for clothing, kae/gae is the word for change. So Koromogae is the day that everyone changes over to summer clothing. This is a Japanese tradition dating back to the Edo period. It's done twice a year--at the start of Summer and the start of Autumn.

I've packed up the winter jackets, hats, and gloves. I had all my sweaters cleaned and bagged and put into storage. I put away our heavy winter blankets and flannel sheets, and got the lighter blankets and cotton sheets out for use. I put away my winter boots and busted out my cute, summery shoes and sandals.

For my Japanese clothing--specifically my kimono, that means I can put away my heavier, lined kimono and bring out my "hitoe"(unlined) kimono (and underkimono) Brighter colors and lighter weights of silk, as well as cotton, linen, hemp and ramie come out of storage to be worn and appreciated. Obi get lighter too! I got out my white leather summer zori and some cute geta for wearing with Yukata during festivals.

Speaking of the festival season's starting, it's time for yukata, unlined cotton robes worn with a simple obi and (traditionally) no undergarments. Yukata are a fun, affordable (although there are lavish ones) introduction to Kitsuke.

Maybe I'll put up some pictures of my summer kimono and yukata but given my lazy tendencies, don't bet on it.

Getting Dressed: Actually Wearing the Damn Thing

2007-04-10T13:00:00.000+09:00

You can see pictures of me wearing various kimono!

Unfortunately, I have yet to get a picture of me in my beautiful Okinawa Bingata kimono. I'd run and do it right now, but it is at the cleaners. That reminds me, I need to go pick it up!

Here's a little more information on Oki Bingata:

http://www.jahitchcock.com/bingata.html

http://web-japan.org/atlas/crafts/cra26.html

http://www.kougei.or.jp/english/crafts/0211/d0211-5.html

Does anyone have any questions about kitsuke that I could try to answer?

Getting Dressed: Kimono

2007-03-31T18:01:00.000+09:00

Please bear with me, it's been a bit hectic around here, and I've only gotten home from the Big Bazaar, where I was working with Ikeda-San of Le Kimono Galerie (Yokohama, Japan).

For those folks I met today at the Big Bazaar, please click the links below, for information on how on how to put on the kimono you've purchased. There's other interesting stuff on the site, too, if you want to look around.

Putting on a Kimono from Beginning to End

If you bought a hanhaba (half-width or narrow obi) from me today, I probably tied it on you so you could see how it looked. You can learn to tie this bow quickly and easily all by yourself!
Trust me, it felt more complicated than it really was.

Here's a PDF file with step by step instructions on how to do it yourself. It's in Japanese, but the pictures are clear and the process is easy to follow.

Bunko Musubi (you'll need Acrobat reader)

If you have any questions, you may email me at the address listed on this page.

Getting Dressed: Tea Ceremony!

2007-01-21T20:23:00.000+09:00

We interrupt our regularly scheduled "Getting Dressed" post to bring you me helping a friend to get dressed for her tea ceremony!

Here's Meg! We discovered too late (alas) that the kimono doesn't quite fit, but we managed to fudge it. I'm pretty happy with the Odaiko knot for the obi. The ohashiori (the fold that shows below the obi) is too long and a bit too bulky, too. I straightened the crooked obijime (cord) after the picture. In addition, the neck of the kimono is not far enough down (not enough nape exposed) and the length is a little short. There's a also a weird fold in the chest area (remedied by a tug and a tuck, but still indicative of incorrect technique). On the plus side, the collars (eri) on both sides were nice and taut and the seams lined up appropriately on the sides and centre back. The back and shoulders are smooth and wrinkle-free and the Odaiko, looks proportionate to her height and build ( I think, anyway). The colors are rich and appriopriate for the seaon, Meg's age and the fact she is going to a tea ceremony. I think this gets a grade of "B."

Getting Dressed: Nagajuban

2007-01-19T20:39:00.000+09:00

Beneath the kimono a nagajuban is worn. A nagajuban (or juban for short) is bascially another kimono, usually shorter than the outer one, worn as underwear, complete with the long kimono sleeves, which are neatly fitted inside the outer kimono's sleeves. Silk kimono are difficult to clean and often delicate, the nagajuban (sometimes just called a juban) helps keep the outer kimono clean by keeping it off the wearer's skin.

Jubans are most often made from silk, but are also available in synthetics, including washable fabrics. I own some synthetic ones (mostly for summer wear, as I can launder them myself), as well as some silk ones. I also have a few vintage ones, one of which predates WWII. Many nagajubans have removable collars, to allow them to be changed and easily washed, without washing the entire garment, which can cause wear and tear on both the silk and on one's wallet.

Bascially, only the collar of the juban shows. Sometimes you can get a peek at the inside sleeve of the juban, which is considered titillating. However, having the juban's sleeves hanging beyond the end of your kimono sleeves is equivalent of having your slip showing, and is tacky, not sexy. The trick my kitsuke sensei taught me is to take up the excess sleeve length with a discrete fold and some tailor's tacks.

While only the collar edge of the nagajuban shows from beneath the outer kimono, womens' jubans are often as beautifully ornate and patterned as the outer kimono. They are considered a 'hidden smartness' and play a large part in the whole concept of iki in kitsuke. Just like everything else in Japanese culture, there are certain rules regarding the wearing of juban. The prime one being that for a kurotomosode (a mostly black, very formal kimono worn by married women), the juban should be pure white. Red juban are considered very iroppoi (sexy) and I tend to agree. I have seen elegant, cute, sexy and downright wacky patterns for juban fabrics.

Men's kimono are usually fairly subdued in pattern and colour,but a man's nagajuban allows him to discreetly wear a garment with very striking designs and colours.

The juban adds another layer of complexity and stylishness to kitsuke...it's more than just underwear.

Some nagajubans of mine. The one hanging up is vintage. It is also a little too long for me, so I need to shorten it before I can wear it. I could wear it and draw up the excess, but that is more work and adds bulk that I don't want. Most women have nagajubans custom-made or at least altered to fit their height. Ideally, the juban should hit just above the anklebone. The red and white juban is made of cotton and a washable synthetic. Note the "silk" is only on the lower half of the skirt and on the sleeves of the top. Red jubans are considered very sexy. The white juban in the foreground is one of my favorites to wear. The big white thing with cranes is not a juban at all, but an uchikake or wedding overrobe.The eri (collar) is stiffened using a piece of plastic. The concept is just like that of the collar points used in men's dress shirts. It makes the eri "pop" and helps acheive a crisp look.Putting the nagajuban on. Please don't make fun of the unattractive picture of me. I'm not quite this homely in person. I am pulling out the lapels to verify I have everything even and centered. You can't see the back, but there's a fist-sized gap between the collar and my occipital bone (the bump at the base of your skull). This makes the kimono drape properly and it's considered sexy.Next, wrap the right side firmly against your body. Right side is always against you, unless you are a corpse, then you wear it the other way 'round.Bring the left side over. The juban is pretty snug against my butt across the back. Tie the juban closed using a koshihimo (cord). You want to tie it fairly tight across the crest of your hipbones (techincally, the iliac crest) so that it doesn't hurt. If you tie the damn thing around your waist, you will feel as if you are are slowly being sawed in two. Not fun. Don't tie a square knot! It digs into your skin and leaves an unsightly lump! I use a little twist technique and then wrap up the excess around the rest of the cord. Note how the mune (chest) of the juban forms a triangle. For married women, the neckline is deeper and the angle more acute. Unmarried girls have a wider, shallower neck (45 degrees, actually. my kimono sensei made me practice and practice and even measured it).Old skool would use another himo (cord) to hold the chest area flat and in place, more modern folks use an elasticated belt, with pinchy clips on the end. They work great. It's fun to make my Sensei say "elastic" because she can't! It comes out ehrastrick!Here I am adjusting the juban. See that pink belt? I've sewn it to the back of the juban to help me keep my neckline in place. It's an easy way to save time and make the overall result nice. There should be no wrinkles on my back, so I have to gently tug the excess down under the belt so it all smoothes out. Note the gap in the neck!

Finished in less than five minutes! Here's the front!Here's the side!

Here's the back!

Here's the end!

Getting Dressed: Hadajuban

2007-01-12T20:12:00.000+09:00

A hadajuban is a cotton slip that goes next to the skin. It's used to absorb sweat and oil and protect both the nagajuban and kimono (underkimono). A hadajuban is worn under the nagajuban. The hadajuban is a crepey cotton fabric and is easily laundered.

Most of the time, I don't wear a hadajuban, but apparently it is a must have for when you are wearing hanayome (wedding ensemble). Probably because hanayome is very hot and heavy and is also usually rented...don't want to have to pay a cleaning and/or damage fee.

Additionally, you can wear a susoyoke, which is like a petticoat with the nagajuban. I have a susoyoke, and I never wear it. It's annoying, adds bulk and really doesn't help all that much. I have a garment which is basically a one-piece jobber combining the hadajuban and susoyoke. You didn't get a picture because I didn't feel like digging it out of the back of my storage closet.

If you look closely, you can probably see the "HANES" label on my sports bra!Man, I am looking chunk-a-roonie lately. And that's after losing 5 pounds. 20 more to go. Sigh.

Getting Dressed: Tabi

2007-01-05T13:37:00.000+09:00

Tabi are split-toed socks, which come to just above the malleolus (ankle bone). I put them on after my underwear, but before my underrobe and kimono, because once you start getting all the parts of a kimono on, it becomes difficult to bend at the waist and putting the socks on would be next to impossible.

Tabi have been worn in Japan since the sixteenth century, reaching their peak during the Edo period (1600-1868). They were developed to wear with sandals: the split between the compartment for the big toe and the remaining toes allow for the hanao (thong) of the sandal. According to Shiatsu theory, wearing Tabi socks benefits the back, the spine, and the digestion due to the acupuncture meridians located between the toes.

Tabi were traditionally hand-made to customers specifications/measurement, but production became mechanized in 1885, when Tsujimoto Fukumatsu established a factory and instituted a "business by volume" policy (a new tactic in Japanese business a the time--for an article about pre-WWII distribution systems in Japan, go here--it's quite interesting) by using altered German sewing machines. He managed to produce so many tabi that tabi went from something most people only wore in the winter to an everyday fashion item! Today, production is still mechanized, but there are tabi "masters" who preserve the art of hand-sewn, custom tabi.

Tabi are traditionally made from cotton and fasten with flat hook-and-eyes. Tabi should be tight-fitting and smooth, with white tabi worn by both men and women for formal occassions. Men in daily wear kimono will wear dark tabi and a recent trend has women wearing colored tabi with their daily kimono. Cotton tabi remain derigeur for dancers and martial artists, but most kimono folks wear a stretchy polyester tabi, since the are easier to wear and care for. It is my opinon though, that they are not as comfortable or as long-lasting as cotton tabi.

A lot of Japanese wear tabi just because they like them and/or find them more comfy or "healthier" for their feet. They wear spun/woven tabi (like our regular socks, but with a split toe) Spun/woven tabi come in a variety of cotton/wool/nylon and all kinds of fun designs. I buy many of mine from the 100 yen shop (like a dollar store). To put these on, you just make sure you have the correct sock for the foot (yes, they are left/right) and pull them on.

Shown in the picture below are some of my tabi. I have a whole sock drawer full of inexpensive pull-on ones for everyday wear. The crazier the pattern, the better! Tabi have pretty much replaced my western socks. You can see spotted nylon pull-on tabi and below those are very thick woolen tabi to wear instead of slippers (note the "grippy dots" on the bottom). Then I have colored pull-on stretch tabi, for wear with yukata or informal kimono and below those are white stretchy tabi which fasten closed with teeth, appriopriate for everyday wear, but also acceptable for formal occassions. Then you see the flower-print cotton tabi with fasteners and lastly, below them are the very traditional white cotton tabi.

To wear cotton tabi: (ankle tattoo not required)

I really don't have cankles, I think the angle at which I took the pictures makes it seem that way!

Fold the back part of the tabi over the front part of the tabi:

Slip in your toes:

Unfold the back part of the tabi:

Fasten the hooks at the ankle:

It looks like this from the top:

Now do the other one!

Getting Dressed: Underwear

2007-01-04T14:26:00.000+09:00

When I begin my kitsuke practice, I begin with a bra and (sometimes) underpants. Underpants were not traditionally worn with kimono and if you've ever tried to go to the bathroom while wearing a kimono, you'll understand why. When I am in kimono, it's one of the few times I actively seek out a Japanese-style toilet (colloquially called "squat pots"), as it is actually easier to use them rather than a western-style toilet.

In addtion to the logistical problem of trips to the bathroom, you can get VPL's if you wear underpants with kimono, since the kimono is actually pulled fairly tight across the bum. Special kimono underpants (with a split/snap/velcro) crotch are available, but why bother? If I really feel I need 'em, I have a pair of granny thunderpants that work well and don't result in VPL's. Don't get me started on thongs. What's the point?

Kimonos look best on small busts, since they don't spoil the "mune" (chest) of the kimono. Back in the day, women used to wrap their chests. Some may still do. I know how to do this (my teacher showed me how) but involves a lot of fabric and work. What I found works best is a sports bra or camisole (it needs to have a deep back, though, as a racer back will show, because the kimono is worn low on the nape of the neck). The more of a masher the bra is, the better.

I'll spare you the pictures of me in my skivvies.

The next thing I put on is Tabi.

Getting Dressed: Makeup

2007-01-03T04:40:00.000+09:00

So now I am showered and have my hair done. The next step is makeup. I do part of my makeup before getting dressed, leaving off my lipstick, because I always seem to get it all over my kimono and accessories.

For going about during the day, I wear a light foundation to even out my skin tone and appropriate shades of eyeshadow and lipstick or gloss. A little mascara, and I'm good. For a more formal (evening) situation, I'll use powder, blush, shape my brows using powder, etc. Unless you're on display at Harajuku, subtley and naturalness is the aim. You're not trying to compete with the kimono.

For the most part (see Harajuku for the exception) the makeup I see worn by Japanese women makeup is subtle and refined. They've got some serious makeup application skillz. Eyeshadow is generally a sheer wash of a single color, and a very common trend I see nowadays is for a very "wet", glossy lip, which I believe is probably clear gloss over a underlayer of color. It looks very lush, but I know if I tried it, I would just be a mess. The very red lip, a classic look in both the East and West is still very popular, too. Japanese women take their cosmetics very, very seriously--it's a billion-dollar business here and even the "cheap" makeup at the 100 yen store is of decent quality.

Bridal makeup is less complex than geisha makeup but aspects of it are visually similar (although not quite the same) as the infamous "white face" makeup of geisha and maiko (apprentice geisha). A geisha over the age of 30 will no longer wear the white make-up, except for performing. A bit about geisha makeup.

I know how to do bridal makeup, but not nearly as quickly or as flawlessly as Eiko-san, my kitsuke sensei can do it. Some of the art in the makeup is adjusting it for different skin tones and texture as well as applying appropriate shading to achieve a symmetrical, classic look. Eiko-san went to school to learn this and honed her skills with 30+ years of practice. Eiko-san has demonstrated on my friend Masako, herself, her granddaughter, Miharu and me. Everyone looks smooth and flawless, like porcelain (albeit of different shades of porcelain). Although I will confess that when I practiced on Eiko-san's granddaughter, Miharu, Miharu (quite loudly) said the she preferred my application technique, because I didn't rub so hard. I also took about twice as long as Eiko-san did to complete the makeup! Eiko's next challenge for me is to do the makeup on my friend Sylvia, who is of mixed Japanese and African-American heritage.

My own makeup techniques for daily wear (and well as the stylishness) have improved greatly since I started kitsuke. Hair and makeup are as much an important part of the process as the kimono itself.

Getting Dressed: Hair

2007-01-02T03:56:00.000+09:00

Before I do the actual dressing, I shower. Oils from skin are not good for silk and since kimono are not washed after each wearing, one needs to be clean. One should be clean anyway. Duh.

I then do my hair. Traditionally, when one wears a kimono, one should have their hair up. This is true for even the informal yukata, although the updo's worn with a yukata tend to be funky and informal. Nowadays a lot of women have shorter hair, which cannot be put up. For short hair, you can use a hairpiece. At the very least, a barrette or comb should be put in the hair, thusly short hair, like long, is always decorated with something, be it silk flowers, tortoiseshell combs, or hairpins of plastic, wood, jade, lacquer, etc.

Brides have a elaborate hairdo (to go with the elaborate kimono), which requires them to wear a katsura (wig). The wig is blended into the natural hair. In the last ten years or so, it has become more common for Japanese women to dye their hair, so now the wigs, which used to come only in black, now are being made in various shades.The wig, which is fairly heavy, can be made of synthetic or human hair, and is waxed and pulled up into a particular shape, and decorated with combs and hairsticks, called kanzashi. Over the wig is worn the headdress, called tsuno kakushi (literally "horn hider" -- to cover the "horns" of such unwomanly emotions as stubborness, jealousy, etc) the gorgeous kanzashi remain visible, as the tsuno kakushi only covers part of the head.

Geisha wear variations of the shimada hairstyle, meaning their hair is pulled back in one section. There are four major types of the shimada: Taka Shimada, a high chignon for usually worn by young, single women; Tsubushi shimada, a more flattened chignon generally worn by older women; Uiwata, a chignon that is usually bound up with a piece of color cotton crepe; and a style that ends up looking like a divided peach, typically worn by maiko. These hairstyles were decorated with elaborate hair-combs and hairpins, which often symbolized status. Combs and pins for the hair became much smaller during the Meijii restoration. Prior to that, combs could be quite large and showy and could often be considered an indicator of status.

Pictures of geisha and maiko (geisha apprentices) hairstyles at howstuffworks.

Akemashite Omedeto Gozaimasu!

2007-01-01T07:57:00.000+09:00

Happy New Year!

2007 or Heisei 19, is the year of the Boar.
This happens to be my astrological sign.

For the new year, I am hoping to be more diligent in posting kimono/kitsuke articles. It's not that it was hard or even that I was busy, although sometimes I was sick...it's just laziness.

I think I will start writing about getting dressed in a kimono, from the underwear up to your hairdo.

Best Dressed

2006-12-14T06:27:00.000+09:00

I dressed a friend for her Annual Holiday party. She won the "Best Dressed" prize! Cool!

Hakama

2006-11-12T20:45:00.000+09:00

Hakama are the Japanese version of a kilt, but ankle-length. I managed to forget some of the subtleties of tying them, so I had a refresher with Eiko. I have Hakama/Men's Kitsuke instructions in PDF format, should anyone want them.

Web Resources

2006-10-28T08:04:00.000+09:00

For care and folding instructions, you can email me. I'm willing to answer questions to the best of my ability, but keep in mind I am a hobbyist, not an expert.

I am not one to reinvent the wheel, especially since the wheel involves putting on the kimono, taking lots of pictures and writing directions, uploading said pictures, creating web pages and maintaining it all. So here are some good resources on the web:

Parts of the Kimono

General Kimono Page

Tying Obis (in Japanese, but you can follow the pictures)

How to actually wear the damn thing. Terrific!

Obi

2006-10-21T05:57:00.000+09:00

Obi (帯, おび) is a Japanese word referring to several different types of sashes worn with kimono and keikogi by both men and women.

Obi are the top-most sash worn with various styles of Japanese clothing; several other sashes may be worn under the obi to secure the clothing in place and/or to enhance the shape of the body or of the uppermost sash.

Except in martial arts, obi are always tied at the back -- traditionally one knotted the obi in its final position, but many people now tie the obi at the front where the knots can easily be seen, and then twist the sash into the correct position. In former times, courtesans and prostitutes wore obi tied at the front for easy removal and retying.

There are several types of obi. The pictures here are some of the obi I own.

The Maru obi is the most formal obi, having two sides of fully patterned tapestry along its length. The classic maru obi measures 33cm wide and 4 meters long (in Empirical measurements, that's about 12 inches wide and nearly 14 feet long. Some antique maru obi, because of the thickness of the tapestry, were pretty heavy. Imagine wearing a 1kg (about 2.5 pounds) belt!

The Maru obi style was most popular during the Meiji(1868-1912) and Taisho(1912 - 1926) eras. However, due to its exorbitant cost and weight (which makes it uncomfortable to wear), the maru obi is rarely worn today, except for traditional Japanese weddings and other very formal occasions. Lighter and easier to tie obi styles came into vogue, and the maru obi fell out of favour.

Here is the only maru obi I own. It is from either then end of Meiji (ended 1912) or from the era known as Taisho (1912 - 1926).It's made from silk, brocaded on both sides and quite hefty.

Like a Maru obi, a very fancy fukuro obi can be used in formal situations, but it is also appropriate for semi-formal events. A Fukuro Obi is very similar to Maru Obi as far length and width, but Fukuro fabrics are generally thinner and Fukuro obi have only one side with a pattern. The patterned area covers about sixty percent of the obi while the remaining fabric is "blank" (unpatterned. When tied, this "blank" part is not seen. This reduces the cost and weight of the obi and also makes it easier to tie.

Here's a fukuro obi, unfolded so the blank part shows. This one is very heavily patterned and very pretty but because it is much thinner and has a plain back, it weighs considerably less than the Maru obi. Sometimes Fukuro obi can be fully-printed. The red and black obi pictured is a fukuro obi. It was made from reclaimed kimono fabric. I put its age around 45-50 years old.

The Nagoya Obi has a unique asymetrical shape with part of it folded and stitched. This makes it easier and faster to tie because the parts the wearer would fold and tie herself are already configured, but limits the number of styles in which the obi can be knotted. The most common bow for a Nagoya obi is the "Odaiko" or drum style. Nagoya obi can be fully patterned or are sixty percent patterned. The length is a bit shorter than other two obis.

Hanhaba (literally "half-width) is a long skinny obi, generally used with infomal kimono (like komon) or yukata. The top obi is a traditonal hakata weave hanhaba obi, made from silk. The color is a little off in the picture, it's a terriffic spring green, like the color of celery. The bottom obi is synthetic and features chili peppers. Everyone loves the chili pepper obi because it makes them giggle, especially little old Japanese ladies.

There are "tsuke obi" or "kantan" (easy) obi. Tsuke obi come in many styles and fabrics and the same accessories as a normal obi are worn. Tsuke obi are similar in concept to a clip-on tie. The tsuke obi comes in two pre-tied parts. There is a belt section and a bow section. The wearer ties the belt part around the waist and inserts (tsuke) the bow part into the belt. The tsuke obi does not appear to suffer the same stigma as the clip-on tie, probably because most tsuke obi are just as expensive (if not more so, because of the additional labor required to tie and sew them) as a regular obi. It really is quite difficult to tell that a tsuke obi is being used--I even fooled the owner of a kimono shop.

I remember reading somewhere that these obi were created (and eventually accepted) because of the graying of Japan--little old arthritic Japanese ladies couldn't tie their obi any more. Now they are popular because most Japanese women don't know how to wear kimono or tie an obi. Tsuke obi are also used for men's obi, even though men's obi are much more straightforward. There's also tsuke obi for kids. I can see the smarts in using them for children's kimono, after trying to tie a squirmy six year-old into a kimono using a child's maru obi (slightly shorter and thinner, but still almost six feet of material), I gave up and used a tsuke obi, much to the relief of BOTH of us.

Hekko obi are big, soft, scarflike obi, often worn with yukata. Since they are very quick and easy to tie and comfortable to wear, Hekko obi are often used on kid's yukata. Here's a little girl trying on a yukata and a hekko obi, her obi is synthetic and tied in a big floppy bow.I've also included a shot of big old hekko obi for a man, this one is a sheer silk, about four feet wide and a good eight feet long. My husband won't wear them, he thinks they're too foo-foo, but I love them because it is a very quaint and charming old-fashioned look. A man's bow is not normally tied so fluffy.

For their kimono (and yukata), men wear a Kekku Obi. Men's obi are much more staid than womens, with palettes of browns, dark greens or blues, or other dark shades. Formality of the obi is determined by fabric, color and pattern--just like women's obi. Keku obi are even narrower than Hanhaba obi and generally tied in a small bow or a knot known as kai no kuchi (clam's mouth). While very easy to tie, tsuke Kekku obi are available and apparently quite popular. A top of the line Kekku obi can cost a couple of hundred dollars (contrast to the thousand or more dollars for a high-end woman's obi).

Men's obi below. The blue one is quite traditional, of a particular weave called hakata. The purple one is slightly wider and can be used for yukata or informal kimono. It is made of silk as well. The yellow obi is also a Kekku obi, but is made of cotton. I've included close-up pictures of the obis' weave.

Kimono

2006-09-14T08:45:00.000+09:00

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Kimono (Japanese: 着物, literally "something worn", i.e., "clothes") are the traditional garments of Japan. Originally kimono was used for all types of clothing, but it came to refer specifically to the full-length garment that is still worn by women, men, and children.

Kimono are T-shaped, straight-lined robes that fall to the ankle, with collars and full-length sleeves. The sleeves are commonly very wide at the wrist, perhaps a half meter. Traditionally, on special occasions unmarried women wear kimono with extremely long sleeves that extend almost to the floor. The robe is wrapped around the body, always with the left side over the right, and secured by a wide belt tied in the back, called an obi. Kimono are generally worn with traditional footwear (especially geta, thonged wood-platform footwear; and zori, a type of thong-like footwear) and split-toe socks called tabi. Beneath the outer kimono, another shorter kimono is worn as underwear, called a nagajuban.

The kimono was mainly influenced by the Chinese Hanfu through extensive cultural exchanges between the two countries starting in the 5th century ce. The modern kimono began to take shape during Japan's Heian period (794–1192 ce). Since then, the basic shape of both men's and women's kimono has remained essentially unchanged.

Traditionally, all women's kimono are one size; wearers tuck and fold the fabric to create the fit appropriate for their body. Kimono are made from a single bolt of kimono fabric. The bolts come in standard dimensions, and all the fabric is used in the making of the kimono. All traditional kimono are sewn by hand, and the fabrics from which they are created are also frequently hand made and hand decorated. Various techniques such as yuzen dye resist (made with a kimono which governs where the pattern is distributed and if it is a singular or a repeating pattern. Repeating patterns that cover a large section of the kimono are traditionally done with the yuzen resist technique and a stencil.

In the past, a kimono would often be entirely taken apart for washing, and then re-sewn for wearing. Modern fabrics and cleaning methods have been found that eliminate this need. However, the washing of kimono in the traditional way can still be found. Basting stitches—long, loose stitches—are sometimes placed around the outside edges of the kimono for storage. They help to prevent bunching, folding and wrinkling, and keep the kimono's layers in alignment.
Over time there have been many variations in color, fabric and style, as well as accessories such as the obi.

There are styles of kimono for various occasions, ranging from extremely formal to very casual. The level of formality of women's kimono is determined mostly by the pattern and fabric, and also the color. Young women's kimono have longer sleeves and tend to be more elaborate than similarly formal older women's kimono. Men's kimono are usually one basic shape and are mainly worn in subdued colors. Formality is also determined by the type and color of accessories, the fabric, and the number or absence of kamon (family crests). Silk is the most desirable, and most formal, fabric. Cotton is more casual. These days there are polyester kimono as well; they are generally more casual.

Today, both men's and women's kimono are increasingly available in different sizes. With the tradition of kimono being made from a single bolt of cloth, larger sizes are difficult to find and very expensive to have made. Very tall or heavy people, such as sumo wrestlers, have kimono custom-made.

Kimono can be expensive. A woman's kimono may easily exceed US$10,000; a complete kimono outfit, with kimono, undergarments, obi, ties, socks, sandals and accessories, can exceed US$20,000. A single obi may cost several thousand dollars. In practice, however, most kimono owned by typical kimono hobbyists or by practitioners of traditional arts are far less expensive.

Enterprising people make their own kimono and undergarments since they follow a standard pattern, or they recycle older kimono. Cheaper and machine-made fabrics substitute for the traditional hand-dyed silk. There is also a thriving business in second-hand kimono in Japan, and second-hand kimono can cost as little as 500 yen. Women's obi, however, mostly remain an expensive item. Although simple patterned or plain colored ones can cost as low as 1500 yen, they can cost hundreds of dollars, and they are difficult for inexperienced people to make. Men's obi, even those made from silk, tend to be much less expensive, because they are narrower and shorter than those worn by women.

Kimono are never wasted. Old kimono are recycled in various ways: they may be altered to make haori, hiyoku, or kimono for children; the fabric may be used to patch similar kimono; larger pieces of fabric may be used for making handbags and other similar kimono accessories; and smaller pieces can be used to make covers, bags or cases for various implements, especially things like the sweet-picks used in tea ceremony. Kimono with damage below the waistline can also be worn under hakama to hide the damage. There were even those skilled in laboriously unpicking the silk thread from old kimono and reweaving it into a new textile in the width of a heku obi for men's kimono, this recycling weaving method is called Saki-Ori.

Today, kimono are usually worn only on special occasions, and mostly by women. A few older women and even fewer men still wear kimono on a daily basis. Men wear kimono most often at weddings and for the tea ceremony. Kimono are also worn by both men and women in certain sports, such as kendo. Professional sumo wrestlers frequently wear kimono because they are required to wear traditional Japanese dress whenever appearing in public outside the ring.

There are many kimono hobbyists in Japan (me!), where people can even take courses on how to put on and wear kimono. Classes cover selecting seasonally and event-appropriate patterns and fabrics, matching the kimono undergarments and accessories to the kimono, layering the undergarments according to subtle meanings, selecting and tying obi, and other topics. There are also clubs devoted to kimono culture, such as Kimono de Ginza.

Women's kimono

Modern kimono are not the elaborate affairs they used to be. Kimono worn for festivals and other informal events can be only two layers, or one with a false under collar and a slip. These informal kimono are worn with a simple patterned or single colored obi. Full formal kimono are most often only worn by brides, geisha, or hostesses, or for very formal events.

Most Japanese women would be unable to properly put on a traditional kimono unaided, since the typical woman's outfit requires twelve or more separate pieces that must be worn, matched and secured in prescribed ways. Professional kimono dressers still help women put on kimono, usually for special occasions. Kimono dressers must be licensed, and while they often work out of hair salons, many make house calls as well. Professionals must be licensed.

The choice of which type of kimono to wear is laden with symbolism and subtle social messages. The specific choice relates to the woman's age and marital status, and the level of formality of the occasion. In descending order of formality:

Kurotomesode (黒留袖): a black kimono patterned only below the waistline, kurotomesode are the most formal kimono for married women. They are often worn by the mothers of the bride and groom at a wedding. Kurotomesode usually have five kamon printed on the sleeves, chest and back of the kimono.

Furisode (振袖): furisode literally translates as swinging sleeves—the sleeves of furisode average between 39 and 42 inches in length. Furisode are the most formal kimono for unmarried women. They have patterns that cover the entire garment, and are usually worn at coming-of-age ceremonies (Seijin Shiki) and by unmarried female relatives of the bride at weddings and wedding receptions.

Irotomesode (色留袖): a single-color kimono, patterned only below the waistline. Irotomesode are slightly less formal than kurotomesode, and are worn by married women, usually close relatives of the bride and groom at a wedding. An irotomesode may have three or five kamon.

Hōmongi (訪問着): literally translates as visiting wear. Characterized by patterns that flow over the shoulders, seams and sleeves, hōmongi rank slightly higher than their close relative, the tsukesage. Hōmongi may be worn by both married and unmarried women; often friends of the bride will wear hōmongi at weddings and receptions. They may also be worn to formal parties, such as galas.

Tsukesage (付け下げ): a tsukesage has more modest patterns that cover less area—mainly below the waist—than the more formal hōmongi. They may also be worn by married and unmarried women.

Iromuji (色無地): single-colored kimono that may be worn by married and unmarried women. They are mainly worn to tea ceremonies. The dyed silk may be figured (rinzu, similar to jacquard), but has no differently colored patterns.

Komon (小紋): fine pattern in English. Kimono with a small, repeated pattern throughout the garment. Somewhat casual: may be worn around town, or dressed up with a nice obi for a restaurant. Both married and unmarried women may wear komon.
Edo Komon (江戸小紋): Edo komon is a type of komon characterized by tiny dots arranged in dense patterns that form larger designs. The Edo komon dyeing technique originated with the samurai class during the Edo period. A kimono with this type of pattern is of the same formality as an iromuji, and when decorated with kamon, may be worn as visiting wear (equivalent to a tsukesage or hōmongi).

Yukata (浴衣): informal unlined summer kimono usually made of cotton, linen, or hemp. Yukata are most often worn to outdoor festivals, by men and women of all ages. They are also worn at onsen (hot spring) resorts, where they are often provided for the guests in the resort's own pattern.

The pattern of the kimono can also determine in what season it should be worn. For example, a pattern with butterflies or cherry blossoms would be worn in spring or summer. A popular autumn motif is the russet leaf of the Japanese maple; for winter, designs may include bamboo, pine trees and ume blossoms.
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Men's kimono

In contrast to the woman's garment, men's kimono outfits are far simpler, typically consisting of a maximum of five pieces, not including socks and sandals.

A noticeable difference between men and women's kimono is the sleeves, these are completely attached to the body of the kimono or no more than an inch or three unattached at the bottom, whereas women's have very deep sleeves and most of their depth is unattached from the body of the kimono. Men's sleeves are less deep than women's kimono sleeves because an obi has to fit round the waist beneath them, whereas on a woman's kimono, the long, unattached bottom of the sleeve can hang over the obi without getting in the way of it.

In the modern era, the principal distinctions between men's kimono are in the fabric. The typical kimono has a subdued, dark color; black, dark blues and greens, and occasionally brown are common. Fabrics are usually matte. Some have a subtle pattern, and textured fabrics are common in more casual kimono. More casual kimono may be of slightly brighter color, such as lighter purples, greens and blues. Sumo wrestlers have occasionally been known to wear quite bright colors such as fuchsia.

The most formal style of kimono is plain black with five kamon on the chest, shoulders and back. Slightly less formal is the three-kamon kimono. These are usually paired with white undergarments and accessories.
Almost any kimono outfit can be made more formal by adding hakama and haori (see below).

Kimono accessories and related garments

Nagajuban (長襦袢) Beneath the kimono a nagajuban is worn. This is another kimono, usually shorter than the outer one, worn as underwear, complete with the long kimono sleeves, which are neatly fitted inside the outer kimono's sleeves. Silk kimono are difficult to clean and often delicate, the nagajuban (sometimes just called a juban) helps keep the outer kimono clean by keeping it off the wearer's skin. Only the collar edge of the nagajuban shows from beneath the outer kimono. Many nagajubans have removable collars, to allow them to be changed and easily washed, without washing the entire garment. Nagajubans are often as beautifully ornate and patterned as the outer kimono. They are considered a 'hidden smartness'.

Men's kimono are usually fairly subdued in pattern and colour, the man's nagajuban allowed him to discreetly wear a garment with very striking designs and colours. Men's ones sometimes have designs referring to Samurai, such as Samurai helmets, or dragons, scenery (especially Mount Fuji scenes), auspicious animals, text and suchlike on them.

Hadajuban (肌襦袢) A thin garment similar to an undershirt. It is worn under the nagajuban.

Susoyoke (裾除け) A thin petticoat-like garment worn under the nagajuban. Sometimes the susoyoke and hadajuban are combined into a one-piece garment.

Geta (下駄) are wooden sandals worn by men and women with yukata. A slightly different style of geta is worn by geisha.

Hakama (袴) is a divided or undivided skirt, rather like a very wide pair of pants, traditionally worn only by men but now worn also by women, and also worn in certain martial arts such as aikido. A hakama typically has pleats, a koshiita (a stiff or padded part in the lower back of the wearer), and himo (long lengths of fabric tied around the waist over the obi, described below). Hakama are worn in several budo arts such as aikido, kendo, iaido and naginata. Hakama are also worn by women at college graduation ceremonies. They can range from very formal to visiting wear, depending on pattern. While very formal women's outfits do not include hakama, men's usually do.

Haori (羽織) is a hip- or thigh-length kimono coat which adds formality. Haori were originally reserved for men, until fashions changed at the end of the Meiji period. They are now worn by both men and women, though women's kimono jackets tend to be longer.

Haori-himo (羽織紐) is a a tasseled, woven string fastener for the haori. The most formal color is white.

Jūnihitoe (十二単) is a twelve-layered-robe worn in ancient times by women at court. Today only worn during most formal occasions at court (imperial weddings, enthronement ceremony, etc.) or can be seen in museums.

Hiyoku (ひよく) is a type of under-kimono, worn in previous times by women beneath the kimono. Today only worn on formal occasions (weddings, important social events).

Kanzashi (簪) are hair ornaments worn in the coiffured hair style which often accompanies kimono. These may take the form of silk flowers, wooden combs, jade hairpins etc..

Obi (帯) is a Japanese sash or belt used to wrap around a kimono or yukata. Obi are generally worn differently depending on the occasion, and they are usually more intricate for women.

Obi-ita (帯板) A thin, fabric covered board placed under the obi to keep its shape. Also called mae-ita.

Datejime (伊達締め) A thin, but stiff sash worn under the obi to keep its shape.

Koshi himo (腰紐)Thin sashes tied to keep the kimono in place while getting dressed.

Tabi (足袋) are ankle-high, divided-toe socks usually worn with zori. They also come in a boot form.

Waraji (草鞋) are straw rope sandals. Most often seen on monks.

Zōri (草履) are cloth, leather or grass-woven sandals. Zori may be highly decorated with intricate stitching or with no decoration at all. They are worn by both men and women. Grass woven zori with white straps are the most formal for men. They are similar in design to flip-flops.

Remodel!

2006-09-01T22:13:00.000+09:00

I am currently in the process of revamping the site content, so the old posts have been taken down. I hope to have some nice Kitsuke and Kimono information up within the next few weeks.